![]() Sparkling, pristine fish can be combined with gnarly offal and grills of the day and bedded down in the basics such as tortilla and pan con tomate, which are notably carefully constructed. The venues are slickly kitted out and the dance of service skilfully choreographed. ![]() I don’t observe queues shortening outside the three outlets, my favourite being Drury Lane because the wait is often more merciful and it is perfect for before and after theatre, ballet and movies. ![]() Her departure to do her own thing - fair enough after 14 years with the Harts - will, I believe, not leave customers short-changed. Bilbao-born chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho established the rigorously authentic style and introduced regional culinary tropes not seen before in London. Still true.Īpparently inspired by Barcelona’s Cal Pep, these tapas bars are the creation of Hart Brothers Sam & Eddie, in whose domain are also Quo Vadis & El Pastor. There isn’t a better description than that by Bruce Yardley in my Standard restaurant guide of 1996: “a bizarre assortment which looks as if picked up at auction following the death of a rich crank, with surprisingly grand bottles available at bargain prices”. The drinks list, plus extra bottles on the blackboard, continues to delight and demand exploration. Cooking keeps pace with the evolving way we like to eat but is never egregiously clever-clogs. Nothing much has changed in the past 30-odd years. But make a booking & “membership” is granted by your name scribbled on the white paper tablecloth - next to a candle in a bottle. As happens in such places, a clientele of regulars clubbily coalesced. Opened in 1986 by the eponymous print dealer whose shop trades next door, the venue was quickly embraced as London’s riposte to a Parisian bistro. Once through the battered door of the early C18th terrace house you can breathe a sigh of relief: Soho’s soul remains untrammelled.
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